Venice is one of the most intriguingly different places to visit on the face of the earth. Today the brilliance and influence of the long-ago merchantile sea culture has long since faded, leaving a town of tarnished glories, out of time and out of place but so beautiful it's hard to resist. I found visiting Venice one of the most memorable of experiences.
Venice is busiest in spring (Easter-June) and September/October and accommodation can be hard to find, as well as around Christmas, New Year and Carnevale (February). In high summer (June/August), Venice is crowded, and oppressively hot and sticky. The most pleasant time of year to visit is late March into May, with milder spring days and fewer crowds. September is the next best in terms of weather, but October is quieter. Flooding occurs in November and December, and winter can be unpleasantly damp and cold, but seeing Venice under snow is truly a sight to behold (although snow in Venice is a rarity).
So what is there to see and do in Venice? Do you mean besides taking a gondola ride through this magical city situated on its maze of narrow water canals? For the hopeless romantic that is a treat making any trip to Venice worthwhile. But, if you stick to the main tourist areas between St. Mark’s Square and the Rialto Bridge it is a crowded place with many tacky souvenir shops. But the architecture, the history and the magnificent artwork makes it all worthwhile.
One of the truly impressive sights not to be missed is Basilica di san Marco, a magnificent Byzantine cathedral that many tourists “Ooh” and “Aah” over. The 11th-century exterior, with its soaring domes, spires, and statuary is only the beginning. Inside the basilica the interior walls and ceilings are covered with one and a half square miles of dazzling, painstakingly assembled mosaics, and other similarly impressive treasures are held inside, including the spectacular, gem-encrusted Pala d'Oro altarpiece. The original bronze Horses of San Marco are on display inside (the ones currently adorning the cathedral's facade are replicas) and were believed to be stolen from Constantinople's Hippodrome in 1204. The basilica still holds Mass at 7:00 a.m. and one can see the beauty of the early-morning light gleeming onto the mosaics.
Other churches sure to impress the tourist are the Dominican’s church of Santi Giovanni e Paolo and the Franciscans’ church of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari (generally known as I Frari). When the Dominicans and Franciscans arrived in Venice at the dawn of the Renaissance, they enticed parishioners by filling their churches with art, some of which rival exhibits in major art museums. The church of Santi Giovanni e Paolo, begun in 1246, holds a polyptych by Giovanni Bellini, magnificent ceiling paintings by Paolo Veronese, and works by Titian and Lorenzo Lotto which were all commissioned as adornment. The Franciscans’ church of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari (1330) is also magnificent with Titian's extraordinary Assumption, with the Virgin Mary soaring heavenward above the high altar in a swirl of sumptuous hues, and his gracious Madonna di Ca' Pesaro dominating the left aisle, and Giovanni Bellini’s Madonna and Child is one of his finest works.
The Gallerie Dell'accademia holds a viewable collection of valuable art from masters, including Paolo Veneziano, Mantegna, Giorgione, Titian, and Tintoretto. doesn't disappoint. Although the gallerie is presently under renovacations, it is due for completion in late 2007. When the Grandi Gallerie dell'Accademiahe is opened in their entirety the exhibition space will have doubled to almost 40,000 square feet and will display 650 works instead of the current 400. At present look for gorgeous narrative works like Bellini and Carpaccio's Miracle of the Relic of the True Cross on the Rialto Bridge, and Carpaccio's Life of Saint Ursula; both exquisitely detailed depictions of 15th-century Venice.
Re-opened in spring of 2006, the Palazzo Grassi was formerly an art exhibition space owned by Fiat, the car manufacturer. The 18th-century palazzo, which overlooks the Grand Canal, was taken over by French luxury-goods magnate François Pinault in 2005 and refurbished by architect Tadao Ando. It now hosts major shows of contemporary art.
Peggy Guggenheim's personal art collection, turned down by London's Tate Gallery, was brought to Venice in 1949. The 20th-century collection moved into the Palazzo Venier dei Leoni on the Grand Canal. The collection, which grew to incorporate works by Dalí, Klee, Picasso, Mondrian, Duchamp, de Kooning, Pollock, and Man Ray, among others, is now a memorable must-see for modern-art buffs.
Piazza San Marco, an immense open public space of almost 40,000 sq. ft., was once known as as "the drawing room of Europe" when napoleon and his army descended on venice in 1797. the museo correr, in the southwest corner of the square, now houses a statue of napolen along with an impressive collection of historic globes, weapons, and artworks by tintoretto, vittore carpaccio, and antonello da messina. visitors can pay an the entry fee which gives access to other attractions around the piazza, like the museo archeologico and the biblioteca marciana (st. mark's library), with its collection of historic tomes. visitors can also visit the doge's palace, a huge gothic structure that was the nerve center of the venetian republic; and take the itinerari segreti guided tour to see the difference between the frescoed, gilded public rooms and the plainer offices where the real business was done. one of the piazza's two towers, the campanile, at 325 feet, is the tallest structure in venice and visitors can climb to the top for a breathtaking view over the city. the 15th-century torre dell'orologio (clock tower), unveiled in late 2006, is now open to the public and visitors can finally go inside.
I could go on and on about the many art works and magnificent architecture of Venice, but then I might not get around to telling you about the shopping that Venice is also famous for. As with any Italian city, Venice offers the big-name fashion labels of Fendi, Gucci, and Ferragamo and shops are located in the area immediately northwest of St. Mark's Square: Calle Larga XXII Marzo and the labyrinth of alleyways known collectively as the Mercerie and the Frezzerie. For slightly less central but more uniquely Venetian shops, check out our recommendations below.
To see the real Venice, one can venture off the beaten track to shop in the real markets and experience where the local people live.
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